I'm guilty of being a bit of a twit!
Iv'e managed to loose.... All the original piccys of the small Porthole 101 guide,
So! lets go the Whole-Hog this time and make a guide thats worth your time
The guide will still be about cutting and installing your port/BLOW hole , bondo-ing , shapeing sanding and preping your work for paint,Just on a larger scale.
Due to time restraints atm and other projects, i'll post as i go, the bulk of it now and add more as soon as i can.
Everything you have in your trusty tool box basically,
Saw (any old wood or hacksaw)
Dremal (the trusty modders apprentice)
Sander (not really needed, but handy)
Rulers and pencils
"G"-Clamps(or "C" clamps, not really needed, but handy)
Jigsaw (with fast cut blade)
Stanley knife (with a sharp blade!)
Putty applicator (spatula)
Hot glue gun (my absolute best, modder modding tool)
Hot air gun (for plexi bending fun, get one!)
A plunger!!?!! (just to make sure your actually reading thru this!)
Bondo! 500G-1KG min
Spray putty (filler)
Black spray paint
A section (flange) of 120mm storm (plastic) water pipe
A couple of small scrap peices of plexi
Time to do?
This MOD is a weekend job, i can knock the whole thing over in about 4-6 hrs, but with bondo re-aps and dry times, take your time over 2 days, it's worth the effort!
The Victim for this guide? it's the the possible, although very unlikley, beginnings of a 3rd HPRes.
If you look back thru my work log you will see a hint that this was the original idea for HPResII but i decided the single fan hole would be the better option at the time, so it will be nice to see what could have been.
The last of the great hp fronts, a section of 120mm pvc pipe, pencil and rulers.
Find your center and mark a line.
lotsa ways of doing this, i'm sure you will work it out *Tip* look @ the back of your panel for "casting lines" or marks! these can be helpfull in finding a centre point.
All storm water or larger pvc is joined by 2 x perfect halves!
this makes our life easy, all you have to do is mark the joins (seams) and then line the marked joins up with the center line on the job.
Mark out your circle or in this case circles!
Using a streight edge for a dual hole cut, join the edjes of the marked circles
This is a temp marking, Do it this way to be 100% sure before you commit to masking and cutting!
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Why do we need to mask up?
Simply because plastic melts with heat, the jigsaw heats the plastic as it cuts off the back of the blade, if this plastic is allowed to fall back down into the freshly cut joint it tends to melt and fuse back into place!!!!
and at the end of your cut! you end up with a re-welded cut and no hole
If you have good lighting you will have no problems seeing your old marks through the masking tape.
If your using a JigSaw, use the "FastCut" wood blade on the left.
It will cut faster and smoother on plastics than the "fineblade" as shown on the right, which will tend melt the plastic or plexi as it cuts.
Cut your hole,
No action shots here soz! just the end results.
Oops! hands not as steady as they used to be!
No prob's here, just use some ruff 40g sandpaper to work it back to the line.
The main hole is cut,
We need to "ruffen up" all the surrounding edges on both sides of the panel.
this will help your bondo to "adhear" or stick to the job better(appies to metal jobs aswell)
for plastics P40 grit "yellow" paper is enuff.
You next have to decide if your single or dual or "extended type" blow hole is going to be a flush mount type or a raised edge type blow hole.
Basically the flush mount type is like what you saw on HPResII where the blow hole sits even with the face of the panel.
On the raised edged type the rim sits out past the face of the panel and the bondo is curved up off the front to meet the edge of the hole, giving your BLOWHOLE a lip.
For this guide we will go with the latter of the two and use the more advanced raised edge type.
As you see above, the single piece of PVC doesn't quiet work in the extended longer hole,
The easiest way around this is to cut the PVC into 2 bits! use those 2 halves at each end and join them with some scrap cut to size, plastic, metal, or whatever you have at your disposal, in this case im using some old scrap bits of plexi.
The dotted line shown below marks the depth of how far i want my lip or edge to preceed past the front of the panel.This will give me a 20mm+ lip which will be perfect for this type of longer hole.
I've sat the panel and the 2 cut end bits back on the case to double check that everything will line up and to get the depth on the edge.
This is a good time to put a few drops of glue to hold the ends in place.
Every home should have a few of these......Plex or perspex scrap bins.
I prepared these 2 peices ealier in the commercial break
Slot them in and add some temp glue to hold in place .
Starting to get an idea of how it will look.
Before we move on any further i'm going to add a dummy plate to the open drive bay area
above the blow hole, This will also get "bondo'ed in" to fill in the top area.
Again its back to the scrap plexi bin to find some plexi. A peice large enuff to cover the whole section.
The idea is to use the shape of the front or panel we are working on to get the shape into the plexi dummy panel.
(i used this same idea to make the stealth cdrom front on HPRES II)
Using some clamps ( you can improvise and use tape) clamp one side to the panel as shown.
With your hot air gun or hair dryer, or! a clothes iron and towel but pls be carefull! for large soft bends like this even hot water can work! again! caution
Apply soft even pressure take your time! move the air gun back and forth across the job untill you feel the plexi bending with just the weight of your hand.
The plexi will be HOT! so grab a hand towel to hold the shape untill the plexi cools down.
Once cool and shape has setlled, Turn the panel over and mark out the section.
Cut and sand to shape.
This does not need to be perfect at all! It's more a back or support for your bondo later which will give you your end shape and look.
Again! you need to "ruffen" your edges where the bondo needs to hold, i will eventually do the whole surface of the dummy plate.
Grab your masking tape and mask down the new panel to the job.
Time for some BONDO ACTION!!!!!
Guys! bondo is ... bondo, bog, putty, filler, spak, what ever you call it! it's just a way to shape surfaces, fill gaps and holes!
i can't really recomend one type or brand over another.
Some ppl say there is proper plastic putty for plastics, some say light weight is better! ... yada yada,
look.... D says...!
If your surfaces are PREPARED properly as shown! and the bondo is mixed acccording to can spec's and you apply it with firm even pressure ! it will work
How much do you mix at a time ?
Don't go over board!
It's better to apply more on the next go, rather than scape a waisted amount thats gone hard on your mix board, into the bin.
Take a good look at what you need to do, in this case i just want to start by filling in the area behind the dummy panel.
Then later i will mix more for the back of the blowhole and the front.
What mixture ratio?
Thats on the can.
but! the more hardener you add the faster your mix will go off! harden!
How do i mix it?
Over lapping turns! scoop your mixer under then flip over and back down into the mix with even very firm pressure, working up and back over and down back thru the mix, until you have a even coloured mix, no swirls of color through the mix , all nice and even.
Don't dilly dally around here! get that mix onto the job,
Scoop enuff to be able to apply it in One-Go to that spot!
Don't Rework the same area, you will pull the mix out of spot it was intended to goto in the first place!
Again if you havn't mixed enuff, no prob, mix some more. It's still better than waist.
As soon as you have finished applying your bondo ... Clean your applicator!!!!!!!!
Nothing worse then having to crack HARD dry bondo off your applicator!
I've allowed 10 mins for the bondo to dry and its time to mix a MOTHER LOAD!
My advice is to keep going and apply in smaller sections at a time.
but i want to move on a bit for the sake of this not becomming a BEN HUR epic.
flip the panel over.
Working on the front, work the bondo into the corner and up the side of the raised edge.
again! using firm pressure to ensure the bondo is worked right into the corner all round.
YES!....Looks bloody ugly i must say. But with some sanding (next) we will become master sculptures
Thats it for part 1 guys. PT 2 comming soon.