Ok so this mod is already finished but I'm going to edit all the pics and post the entire build log here.
I have a large 2-piece Husky toolbox that obviously houses all of my tools. The bottom right drawer is a deep one (takes up two vertical spots) and is full of nothing but spare nuts and bolts. I took the two drawers out of the bottom right spot on the top box and put them in the bottom right part of the lower box and just ditched the large junk drawer. It's in this spot that I put the PC.
A HUGE thank you goes out to Thermaltake who have graciously sponsored this build with a ton of their new watercooling gear. This includes the following:
Pacifit PT20 Reservoir/pump combo
Pacific RL240 Radiator
W2 CPU Block
V-Tubler 3T Tubing
Coolant 1000 Red
2x Pacific G 1/4 45º fitting
2x Pacific G 1/4 90º fitting
6x Pacific 3/8" x 5/8" Compression fitting
4x Riing 12 Red LED Fans
AMD A10 6800k
WD Caviar Black 320GB 2.5" HDD
Radeon HD7350 2GB
8GB Corsiar Vengeance LP 1600
220W 1U server PSU
Cooling by Thermaltake
Lamptron CW611 Controller
Windows 10 64-bit
Logitech MK100 wireless keyboard and mouse
17" Dell monitor
This drawer with the large BAJA sticker is the junk drawer. There's really no need for this to be here. It's full of junk and it's HEAVY.
This spot had two drawers in it. This is where the PC is going. The two drawers that were here got moved to where the single junk drawer came from.
As you can see there's a decent amount of room and it's almost perfectly rectangle in shape.
Now that the slides are out of the way we can get a better look at what we've got to work with.
Here I have the bottom black acrylic panel cut to nestle in around the drawer lock mechanism. This ITX setup is an old AMD and is just here for mockup.
Here you can see I have the bottom, top and side panels roughly cut.
I had to partially disassemble the PSU to get it to fit nicely under the lip of the casing. I also had to sand down the top edge of the cooling fan a tad so the bottom acrylic panel would lie flush.
I set the hardware up on the workbench and got Windows 10 Technical Preview installed and all the drivers installed.
Next up I cut out holes and installed the power button which is actually a key switch, the reset button with HDD activity LED and two front USB 3.0 ports.
Next up I cut an opening in the back for the power cable extension.
A friend was kind enough to give me a back panel from a BitFenix Prodigy that he didn’t need so I could steal the i/o section from it.
Here it is after I got done trimming the excess.
And here’s where it will reside.
Next up I marked and cut out the needed parts from the rear of the toolbox.
I painted the i/o part black and installed the i/o shield.
With the motherboard mounted to the lower plate I marked and cut out slots for the wiring to pass through.
Here I have the panel riveted into place. I also cut out the hole and mounts for the rear 120mm exhaust fan and added some rubber trim to help seal the fan against any kind of bugs that might like to get in.
Here we have the fan installed with a filter on the outside – again to keep out the bugs. The motherboard is temporarily mounted here.
My package from Thermaltake showed up! Lots of awesome goodies going into this build now!
I got the W2 CPU Block mounted and the LED connector plugged into the CPU fan header.
Next up I worked on securing the acrylic to the toolbox. I decided to use M5 well nuts with some nice red anodized button head fasteners.
Next I got the PT20 mounted to the left side panel. This combo is great I must say.
Here is approximately where the radiator will go. It’s a lot thicker than I anticipated!
Here’s the bottom and left side panels installed.
I decided to use a Lamptron CW611 controller that I had sitting around for this build. It’ll fit perfectly here.
I designed and 3D printed three corner brackets and a combo fan control shroud/corner bracket. These parts will tie all of the acrylic panels together with the steel toolbox body.
The fan control shroud is a perfect fit.
I drilled the corner brackets like so so that the well nut will go through both the acrylic and steel while the bolt goes through just the bracket.
Here’s the completed bracket setup. The four front-facing holes will accept well nuts and hold on the clear acrylic front panel.
I drilled two mounting holes in the shroud and mounted the controller securely to it.
I then added a single well nut and bolt to hold the bottom panel to the toolbox frame.
Next up I mounted the HDD to the left side panel just behind the PT20 assembly and spaced it with some plastic spacers.
I had an extra channel on the Lamptron controller so I added a small 40mm white LED fan behind the HDD to provide some cooling and lighting.
Next I sleeved both the temp sensor and pump cables with some red/black paracord.