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Thread: Defyant's Mega Blowhole Bondo guide

  1. #1

    Defyant's Mega Blowhole Bondo guide

    I'm guilty of being a bit of a twit!

    Iv'e managed to loose.... All the original piccys of the small Porthole 101 guide,

    So! lets go the Whole-Hog this time and make a guide thats worth your time

    The guide will still be about cutting and installing your port/BLOW hole , bondo-ing , shapeing sanding and preping your work for paint,Just on a larger scale.

    Due to time restraints atm and other projects, i'll post as i go, the bulk of it now and add more as soon as i can.


    Everything you have in your trusty tool box basically,

    Saw (any old wood or hacksaw)
    Dremal (the trusty modders apprentice)
    Sander (not really needed, but handy)
    Rulers and pencils
    "G"-Clamps(or "C" clamps, not really needed, but handy)
    Jigsaw (with fast cut blade)
    Stanley knife (with a sharp blade!)
    Putty applicator (spatula)
    Hot glue gun (my absolute best, modder modding tool)
    Hot air gun (for plexi bending fun, get one!)
    A plunger!!?!! (just to make sure your actually reading thru this!)


    Bondo! 500G-1KG min
    Sandpaper verious.
    Masking tape
    Spray putty (filler)
    Black spray paint
    A section (flange) of 120mm storm (plastic) water pipe
    A couple of small scrap peices of plexi

    Time to do?

    This MOD is a weekend job, i can knock the whole thing over in about 4-6 hrs, but with bondo re-aps and dry times, take your time over 2 days, it's worth the effort!

    The Victim for this guide? it's the the possible, although very unlikley, beginnings of a 3rd HPRes.

    If you look back thru my work log you will see a hint that this was the original idea for HPResII but i decided the single fan hole would be the better option at the time, so it will be nice to see what could have been.

    The last of the great hp fronts, a section of 120mm pvc pipe, pencil and rulers.

    Find your center and mark a line.

    lotsa ways of doing this, i'm sure you will work it out *Tip* look @ the back of your panel for "casting lines" or marks! these can be helpfull in finding a centre point.

    All storm water or larger pvc is joined by 2 x perfect halves!
    this makes our life easy, all you have to do is mark the joins (seams) and then line the marked joins up with the center line on the job.

    Mark out your circle or in this case circles!

    Using a streight edge for a dual hole cut, join the edjes of the marked circles

    This is a temp marking, Do it this way to be 100% sure before you commit to masking and cutting!

    s/Tutorials/Bondo%20guide/7.jpg" alt="" />

    Next maskup.

    Why do we need to mask up?

    Simply because plastic melts with heat, the jigsaw heats the plastic as it cuts off the back of the blade, if this plastic is allowed to fall back down into the freshly cut joint it tends to melt and fuse back into place!!!!

    and at the end of your cut! you end up with a re-welded cut and no hole

    If you have good lighting you will have no problems seeing your old marks through the masking tape.

    If your using a JigSaw, use the "FastCut" wood blade on the left.

    It will cut faster and smoother on plastics than the "fineblade" as shown on the right, which will tend melt the plastic or plexi as it cuts.

    Cut your hole,

    No action shots here soz! just the end results.

    Oops! hands not as steady as they used to be!

    No prob's here, just use some ruff 40g sandpaper to work it back to the line.

    The main hole is cut,

    We need to "ruffen up" all the surrounding edges on both sides of the panel.
    this will help your bondo to "adhear" or stick to the job better(appies to metal jobs aswell)

    for plastics P40 grit "yellow" paper is enuff.

    You next have to decide if your single or dual or "extended type" blow hole is going to be a flush mount type or a raised edge type blow hole.

    Basically the flush mount type is like what you saw on HPResII where the blow hole sits even with the face of the panel.


    On the raised edged type the rim sits out past the face of the panel and the bondo is curved up off the front to meet the edge of the hole, giving your BLOWHOLE a lip.


    For this guide we will go with the latter of the two and use the more advanced raised edge type.

    As you see above, the single piece of PVC doesn't quiet work in the extended longer hole,

    The easiest way around this is to cut the PVC into 2 bits! use those 2 halves at each end and join them with some scrap cut to size, plastic, metal, or whatever you have at your disposal, in this case im using some old scrap bits of plexi.

    The dotted line shown below marks the depth of how far i want my lip or edge to preceed past the front of the panel.This will give me a 20mm+ lip which will be perfect for this type of longer hole.

    I've sat the panel and the 2 cut end bits back on the case to double check that everything will line up and to get the depth on the edge.
    This is a good time to put a few drops of glue to hold the ends in place.

    Every home should have a few of these......Plex or perspex scrap bins.

    I prepared these 2 peices ealier in the commercial break

    Slot them in and add some temp glue to hold in place .

    Starting to get an idea of how it will look.

    Before we move on any further i'm going to add a dummy plate to the open drive bay area
    above the blow hole, This will also get "bondo'ed in" to fill in the top area.

    Again its back to the scrap plexi bin to find some plexi. A peice large enuff to cover the whole section.

    The idea is to use the shape of the front or panel we are working on to get the shape into the plexi dummy panel.

    (i used this same idea to make the stealth cdrom front on HPRES II)

    Using some clamps ( you can improvise and use tape) clamp one side to the panel as shown.

    With your hot air gun or hair dryer, or! a clothes iron and towel but pls be carefull! for large soft bends like this even hot water can work! again! caution

    Apply soft even pressure take your time! move the air gun back and forth across the job untill you feel the plexi bending with just the weight of your hand.

    The plexi will be HOT! so grab a hand towel to hold the shape untill the plexi cools down.

    Once cool and shape has setlled, Turn the panel over and mark out the section.

    Cut and sand to shape.

    This does not need to be perfect at all! It's more a back or support for your bondo later which will give you your end shape and look.

    Again! you need to "ruffen" your edges where the bondo needs to hold, i will eventually do the whole surface of the dummy plate.

    Grab your masking tape and mask down the new panel to the job.

    Time for some BONDO ACTION!!!!!

    Guys! bondo is ... bondo, bog, putty, filler, spak, what ever you call it! it's just a way to shape surfaces, fill gaps and holes!

    i can't really recomend one type or brand over another.

    Some ppl say there is proper plastic putty for plastics, some say light weight is better! ... yada yada,

    look.... D says...!

    If your surfaces are PREPARED properly as shown! and the bondo is mixed acccording to can spec's and you apply it with firm even pressure ! it will work

    How much do you mix at a time ?

    Don't go over board!

    It's better to apply more on the next go, rather than scape a waisted amount thats gone hard on your mix board, into the bin.

    Take a good look at what you need to do, in this case i just want to start by filling in the area behind the dummy panel.

    Then later i will mix more for the back of the blowhole and the front.

    What mixture ratio?

    Thats on the can.
    but! the more hardener you add the faster your mix will go off! harden!

    How do i mix it?

    Over lapping turns! scoop your mixer under then flip over and back down into the mix with even very firm pressure, working up and back over and down back thru the mix, until you have a even coloured mix, no swirls of color through the mix , all nice and even.

    Don't dilly dally around here! get that mix onto the job,

    Scoop enuff to be able to apply it in One-Go to that spot!

    Don't Rework the same area, you will pull the mix out of spot it was intended to goto in the first place!

    Again if you havn't mixed enuff, no prob, mix some more. It's still better than waist.

    As soon as you have finished applying your bondo ... Clean your applicator!!!!!!!!
    Nothing worse then having to crack HARD dry bondo off your applicator!



    I've allowed 10 mins for the bondo to dry and its time to mix a MOTHER LOAD!

    My advice is to keep going and apply in smaller sections at a time.

    but i want to move on a bit for the sake of this not becomming a BEN HUR epic.

    flip the panel over.

    Working on the front, work the bondo into the corner and up the side of the raised edge.

    again! using firm pressure to ensure the bondo is worked right into the corner all round.

    YES!....Looks bloody ugly i must say. But with some sanding (next) we will become master sculptures

    Thats it for part 1 guys. PT 2 comming soon.

  2. #2

    Defyant's Mega Blowhole Bondo guide

    PART 2.

    Now that the Bondo is nice and dry! it's time to start some sanding.

    This is the first step in what will be a 2 part bondo sanding to the final hand putty.

    Tools to use here can be a small electric hand sander, but for the sake of those who dont have access to power tools i'll show the guide using a hand sanding block.

    choice of sandpaper is 2 sheets of P36 Grit "Yellow" paper.

    One sheet on the block and a thinner strip that can be torn up into smaller peices for the smaller hand work.

    A hand block! these can be bought from local hardware shops as can your paper, the blocks are around 2-5 dollars.

    First off, sanding the top till it's smooth,

    The idea next, is to just knock the top off all the bondo, the 36grit paper will cut thru bondo like a hot knife to butter with little effort at all the top area is smooth.

    The next step is to work on the outer lip of the blow hole.

    The method here is to work up one edge @ a time, working along the whole side in long even strokes.
    Try not to "Dig-In" in one area, if there are larger pit holes! no need to dig the end of the paper into these spots,

    Keep working in long even sections, the pits can be filled in later.

    Use the "Edge" of the hand sander, this will give you an even, straight line.

    Repeat the same for the other side.

    The sanding block is what gives you your straight edges!

    Using the block to even the front of the blow hole, again long even strokes along the whole front.

    Hold the panel up and look along the sufaces to check if your work is even.

    Once the bulk of the sanding is done, you can concentrate on smaller areas.

    Again using your hand block, work on smaller areas @ a time.

    Using the "edge" of the block you can shape areas as needed.

    As shown, use the egde to shape .

    Excuse my melon! again using the corner to get some shape

    Next using some of the strip 36g paper its time to do the gritty work.

    Bending paper this way you can use it and your finger to get concave, round shapes and work in larger grooves.

    a sharper bend will allow you to put thinner lines and grooves back into your work.

    In this case, i want to keep the lines shown, these are the original lines so they will be worked back up into where the bondo is, using the bent 36g.

    Next you will notice some areas are too full, or the top lines are thicker!

    you need to work the area under the surface or top line in this case,

    Buy removing the excess bondo under the line it will thin out.

    Clean up the inner edge

    Your job should be taking shape now

    Use your hand block to knock most of the bondo out from the inner side of the blow hole, cleaning up with a smaller peice by hand

    a quick check to see that all is even.

    Next is to have a good look, you will see lots of "pit holes" full of old bondo dust,

    orials/Bondo%20guide/Part%202/33.jpg" alt="" />

    If you have a Air blower its good to give the whole job a BLAST!

    I also use a wirebrush to give the holes a real good clean!

    Don't be concerned about scratching, as you are still going to apply another layer of bondo, and any extra deep scratches will only help the new layer to bite in and hold.

    It's over to the bench to mix some bondo.

    Again Take the time to have a good look over the job to see how much you will need to mix up!!!!!!

    i'll need enuf to go over the top clear section again and to "fill in" around the outer of the blow hole.

    As it was, i'd mixed just enuf to cover what i needed, but its better to mix some more up then to throw some out!

    Getting a good scoop of mixed bondo, work across the whole area in single even firm strokes untill the area is covered,

    Try not to go over the same spots, as bondo will pull out of a "low spot" and back onto the 'high".

    Again on the sides!

    Firm pressure working back down off the outer top lip this time.

    Repeat all round.

    Once done using the edge of the applicator, im going to put back in the original grooves that run down each side of the panel.

    It looks as though your right back where you started from!

    Your not! you are one more step closer to your finished job.

    Final bondo sanding, one last go over and preping for spot putty to come

  3. #3

    Defyant's Mega Blowhole Bondo guide

    This is part 2 of part 2

    After your second layer of bondo has dried, its time to get back to sanding.

    Again using your block and 36grit paper, use the same method and "knock off the bulk or ruffness" of the top of the new layer.

    I knew when i took the shot that this layer wasn't going to be the last!

    thats ok!

    We're not trying to win a race or working for tha man, or his clock!

    This is about pride and joy so if it takes 4-5 applications and sanding of bondo to get the desired shape .... so be it!

    Once the bulk has been knocked off you can move onto some finer paper.

    A sheet of "white" 60 or 80 is fine to work with

    again, work in long even stokes.

    Apply the paper to your sanding block start sanding.

    It's important to remember !!! anywhere that you rub thru-to the plastic ... STOP ! move on, once you hit plastic don't sand that spot anymore.

    A quick check shows that there is still a "low spot" that i haven't applied enuff bondo to!

    Don't worry, we will get this on the next pass!

    A quick hand rub with your eyes shut is a good way to pick up high and low areas. you will have them, and just digging down the high's doesn't give you a flat even surface.

    You will need to fill these areas in with more bondo.

    A lot of ppl have trouble feeling the "high" and "low" spots, a good way to help yourself along is to apply a "shadow coat" of paint , as with wet rubbing for painting. You can use this paint as a guide to pick up on your high and low spots.

    Using anyold black, blue, red or even green paint, give the whole job a "dust coat" , no need to go spray painting here, just a light, dusty coat from 15-30 cms away,

    The quicker this dust coat dries, the qicker you can get on with sanding!!!!!

    rials/Bondo%20guide/Part%203/DSCF0146.jpg" alt="" />

    The bulk of your sanding has already been done with the coarse 36g and 60g papers.

    Get a fresh peice of 100g white and a small flat block ( i use an old peice of plex) but cork and smaller plastic blocks can be bought cheep.

    Then once Again using long even smooth over-lapping strokes, sand the whole job, from side to side , this method will show you what you need to know!

    stages as you go

    As you can see where the paint is left , this is a low!
    this area we will need to fill again with more bondo

    Your furthest left and right edges become your guides! they tell you when you have sanded enuff. As you start to dig original plastic out of the edges, you know you have sanded enuff and as flat as your job needs to be,

    a good hand feel around the blow hole lip and the tell tail paint shadow , lets you know if your lip will need more sanding.

    Mine does so curling the sandpaper around the fingers will help to work the right shape.

    Again! long even strokes, the full length of the side.

    your job should be starting to take some shape and look smooth.

    I am anal about keeping orignal lines! comes from repairing old cars!

    so in order to keep the 2 orig. lines, its just a case of creasing a piece of 100g and working down, in the lines, to sand away any bondo deposits.

    Next , to work on those bottem lines , again with your folded peaice of 100g work to and along the lines" alt="" />

    A quick check all round to see that everything is looking nice and even!

    A look from the top, down along the job clearly shows the "low" area. This is where more bondo will be applied

    A soft going over with the wire brush to clean out any left over dust and to show up any "pits" that will again need to be filled.

    We still have a few!

    these we will fill using finger dobs of bondo and pressing firmly into the holes.

    Mix some bondo,

    Applying once again in one single application where possible , apply over the low area.

    Time to have some good o'l finger fun!

    Don't forget the inside of the blow hole , a good smearing of bondo all around is the best for this.

    Ready to sit the night out and dry.


    final bondo and preping and handputty

  4. #4

    Defyant's Mega Blowhole Bondo guide

    looking good.. and maybe a hpres3 coming out of this... come on you know you want to.. much appreciated guide!

  5. #5

    Defyant's Mega Blowhole Bondo guide

    Sweeeet work MR. Bondo :wink:

  6. #6
    Master Modder
    Join Date
    Nov 2006

    Defyant's Mega Blowhole Bondo guide

    so what happened to the final part?????

  7. #7
    Master Modder
    Join Date
    Mar 2006

    Defyant's Mega Blowhole Bondo guide

    That's one of the reason's everybody is wondering what has happened to Defyant. So far it seems that nobody knows anything about him. It seems that he has fallen off the face of the earth. Happy Modding to ya.

  8. #8
    Master Modder
    Join Date
    Nov 2006

    Defyant's Mega Blowhole Bondo guide

    well, i know i found the finshed project for this blowhole....but the last time he was active was mid 2007.....odd its really anoying as i really wana tlk with him! hard times....defyant! if your reading this please show yaself! :P

  9. #9
    Master Modder Tazz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006

    Defyant's Mega Blowhole Bondo guide

    Defyant plays WoW on occasion and when he does he gets wrapped up in like most. I've talked to him a while back but rarely see him. His most recent forums location I think was .

  10. #10

    Defyant's Mega Blowhole Bondo guide

    Defyant plays WoW on occasion and when he does he gets wrapped up in like most. I've talked to him a while back but rarely see him. His most recent forums location I think was .
    LOL! This one

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