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Thread: The Sleeper

  1. #101
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    The Sleeper

    WOOT!

    Almost done with this frikken PSU! YAY!!!!!

    This was the 56th pin... the last pin. I was 55 for 55 on the sleeving and reinsertion up until this point... this lil bastardo ruined my shut out! ^&@#&)*Y(*!!!!!


    Now, ton continue the funny story part of this... the inside of a power molex uses female pins of a very specific type and size. I went crusing all over the internet to a couple different forums, posting up my question.... "What tha hell type pin is this??!?!?" What I did not care to remember is that a few years ago, I had purchased a plethora of different molex pins and put together a "PSU repair kit"... hehehe, yeah. I had them... it just took me a couple of days to REMEMBER that I had them! Once I found the stash, it was easy after that. Pull a pin... and crimp that thing on.... YAY ME!

    I'm finished sleeving but not done with the PSU!


    Who needs warranties? This one is T-O-A-S-T!


    What I am doing is putting a large 1.5" piece of heatshrink around the base of the wires where they come out of the power supply, in lieu of using a zip tie (which I had already pulled off). The 1.5" diameter shrinks down to about 3/4" after it is all said and done.


    I've got a few more tweaks to knock out before I post the final pics of the power supply.... but I have finished one of the hardest parts! YAY!!!

  2. #102
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    The Sleeper

    So.... I am in full juggle mode right now...

    Got a small parts shipment in from Performance PCs:


    I did not put the black tubing in the picture, nor the 2nd fan. No real need. The meat of the order is right here. 2 items from Bitspower and some Cooler Master 120mm fans. The Bitspower items are a "Y" adapter and a pump mod kid. The MCP655 is not really what I would call remotely attractive in it's default kit. This should help it dramatically!


    Here we have the 655 in all of its... *uuurp* ... "glory"...


    PUll the pump off the bracket and compare the old to the new. Here is a hint, the one on the right is a chrome bracket with the Bitspower logo on it. And it looks a damned sight better than the default black!


    Here is the replacement housing for the pump:


    Here is the pump. I had to pull off the sleeving I performed earlier on the power and ground lines. I did this for 2 main reasons. 1) The sleeving was too transparent. and 2) it would not fit through the back plate of the chrome housing pictured above.


    Unscrew the main pump nut that holds the pump to the nozzle plate:





    After the ring is off, but the back plate piece on, threading the wires through the proper hole (I did this to insure the Bitspower logo was properly oriented), then slide the chromed cup housing over the pump, and screw it down where the nut was just threaded (the one you just saw me remove). after you have done that, you will end up with this yummy lil creation....




    Easy and quick way to change the appearance of the pump. I'm happy with how it came out!

    -=TD

  3. #103
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    The Sleeper

    Sometimes, in order to get the lead out, you just need to push yourself through the roadblock. Me, the fan cable management is going to be tricky... so I have been dragging my feet on committing to that section of the build. Well, I feel like it is going to look sweet, so I needed to suck it up and bite the bullet. It is a 6 channel fan controller, and I need 6 holes to feed my jacks through....

    I created a template in Corel Draw that had my 6 holes evenly spaced. I then taped it to the back of the case and layered painters tape under the printout so as to help save the painted finish.




    I ran a center line for the holes, then used a center punch to dent where I wanted the 1/8" hole drilled. After I Had those center pilot holes drilled, then grabbed my stepper bit and enlarged the holes.






    I need to go one or 2 sizes larger to allow for the jacks to feed through properly.... but it has begun!

    -=TD

  4. #104
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    The Sleeper





    It is tough working on 2 mods at the same time....
    -=TD

  5. #105

    The Sleeper

    Nicely done, the pump work is gorgeous. Good idea using the Universal bit too, I desperately need to get a couple of those, much cleaner and quicker than the big old hole bore bits!
    Jeez what the heck did you do to Modcatz? He looks spent! Slave driver.
    Love the CoolerMaster Sickle fan too. I'm using 5 of those on my Antec 1200 build (maybe 6).
    That radiator is seksy in blue too!

  6. #106

    The Sleeper

    "Modcatz is sleepin.... you shud be too"

  7. #107
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    The Sleeper

    Uh oh.... guess what folks... TD's back in the game.... Will have some updates in a bit!

  8. #108
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    The Sleeper

    One of the main problems with a long layoff is trying to figure out "Where exactly did I leave off on the log?" Scouring through the pics trying to see what all I had discussed, and what I was leading to....

    So.... here was some work I actually performed many moons ago, but forgot to post up for whatever reason...

    Hard drives require power. And I abhor individual molex connectors that come from manufacturers. Sorry PSU guys.... but there is just no way you can make a multi hard drive connector, and keep it attractive! So, as was the case with some of my past builds, I built my own power run. Some of you may not know how to do this, so I'm going to show you how I did mine.

    Here is the end result so you can decide if you want to keep reading:


    So, my hard drives for Sleeper will be 2.5 inch drives.


    What I will be using are SATA, 90 degree "press fit" connectors:


    Here you can see me putting on a connector with the receiving blade back side facing up:







    So I start with the end SATA connector. The one where the wires will terminate. I remove the connector from the hard drive and put the connector on something sturdy, place the wires over the top with some additional slack on the side that will be terminated (this will make sense in a second). I then put my thumbs on the wire on both sides of the connector, and use thumb pressure to "pull" the wire down into the bladed channel. I use a small, standard head screwdriver to finish the wire insertion, by pushing the wire all the way down into the bottom of the connector. This insures that the blades have cut all the way through the insulating jacket around the wire, and have made a solid connection with the conductor. After I have the wires all the way down into the slots, I use my microdikes and cut the cable *on the side to be covered off*, so that the cable is flush with the plastic surface. Looking from the rear of the plug, where the wires are inserted, your finished product would look something like this:



    Put the cap over the end, and you get this:



    So I then place the now completed 1st connector on the "end most drive" from where I am sourcing my power for the chain. I lay my wires over the drives, put the next connector in the chain on the SATA drive, and I gently use my thumbs on the wires and mold them to the relative position of the SATA connection location. The cables get a slight shape around where the connector is located. Each time you mold the wire and start trying to put the connector on, you remove the cable run and do the work on a table top or something else that is sturdy. *DO NOT* try to push fit the wires while the connector is on the hard drive. You will break that SATA connector on your hard drive. It is flimsy plastic there. Do not do it. You have been warned. I had already completed the middle connector, but you can see where the 3rd drive has the wires slightly molded:


    After building the power connector, you would end up with something like this:


    Once mounted inside the chassis, you get this:






    I fed my cables through the side of the chassis, and put a male molex on the other side to receive the connection from the power supply. This keeps the connection out of site.

    Obviously, every installation is different, but uncluttering an exposed hard drive area with a custom power run is one of the easiest ways to detail your build so that it displays like a champ!

    -=TD

  9. #109
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    The Sleeper

    Now, also.... one of the "dog that caught the car" moments that I have been fighting through, was the use of a 6 channel fan controller. The problem stems from the fact that there are 6 sets of fan power cables that will spew forth from this controller, as well as 6 sets of thermal probes... *and* a power connector somewhere in this mess. Folks that is a LOT of cable management! So, I got to thinking about the cable runs, and had originally spent a LOT of time on the 3 conductor phono jack system noted earlier. Well... concept and application proved a different reality (the jacks were too tall and were being interfered with by the water tubing), so I have had to scrap the jacks idea. Will use that again though on a different mod.

    Here is the controller location:


    The DVD drive will be above it.

    So I mocked up a back plate using some foamcore board, just to get a feel for spacing and size:




    To better route the cables from the fan controller to the 6 holes that I drilled, I started building a front face plate that will be on the inside of the chassis, next to the motherboard tray. I used some cut 1/8" black acrylic. The divots in the side are to accomidate the motherboard tray standoffs:


    Pressed it to the area behind the holes:


    And then used a pencil to mark out where the holes were:



    More to come folks....
    -=TD

  10. #110

    The Sleeper

    Glad to see the updates but just wondering,... Why in the hell did you break into my house an take a picture of my cat?







    You're alleged cat:








    And mine





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