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Thread: Tony -Tazz's Worklog

  1. #21

    Tony -Tazz's Worklog

    the "Spin-Q quasi Carbs" and hand made Louvers are inflating the Balonies


    This video is for you Tony,

  2. #22
    Clear Coat Tazz's Avatar
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    Tony -Tazz's Worklog

    Thanks guys... Oh hell yeah Bill .

  3. #23
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    Tony -Tazz's Worklog

    Do to lack of brain power at the time I actually forgot to pop any shots of the filler process on the top panel. We've all seen the drab bondo shots anyway, right???



    In the mist of doing all the bondo application, sanding, and sucking bondo dust, I started doing the prep work on the side panels. I know we stated in the rules that the majority of the paint process had to be done with rattle can. Well I'm a picky mofo and was unable to find a Red that I liked in rattle cans. I decided to see what the guys thought of an alternative idea that I knew I could find the perfect Red in.

    Above you see a pair of Preval Sprayers. These have been around for years, and can come in handy when you want to spray something with a not so readily available paint. After explaining to my fellow modders in this event that I was unable to find any Red that I liked (whats available around here is all just to dark for what I wanted). I generally end up using 6 (2 primer, 2 color, and 2 clear) cans at the minimum of rattle can paint when I do a mod. That totals out to roughly $36 bucks give or take a little, most rattle can options that suite my needs go for $5 - $7 bucks a can. The alternative that I pitched was using the Preval Sprayers with Dupli-Color's Paint Shop System paint by the quart. I found a can of Red that looked good for about a penny shy of $23 bucks, the Preval Sprayers came in right at $10 bucks. This put me at roughly $33 bucks, which falls well into the budget and gives a person the flexibility of choosing some of the more custom paints available at auto part stores and so forth. After getting all of their approvals, I proceeded on with the plan.

    OH!... For anyone that notices, the little bottle on the Preval Sprayer standing up isn't the actual bottle for the sprayer. That is one of my bottles for the airbrush. To save on costs I opted not to buy Preval's bottle seeing that I had one that would fit. I simply cut the pickup hose off to fit my bottle. You can see in the bottle how short it is after cutting it compared to the one standing in front of it.



    Well as you can see by the above photo. While in between bondo applications, I prepped and primed the side panels. I simply sanded everything down with some 220 Grit sandpaper (choosing not to go to bare metal). The Preval Sprayers.... hmm... where do I start? As you can see and will see, they actually got the job done. The light grey primer I used was the 2nd gamble I took. I've got a small collection of paint supplies tucked away in the garage from several years ago when I painted an old 78 Chevy 4X4. I was actually surprised the supplies have held up this long. Not knowing how well the Preval Spray would work, I had to play with the thinner / paint ratios a bit to get it to spray decent. These things do OK for simple jobs, but they do NOT ATOMIZE the paints for SHIT... Anyone that has sprayed paint will know that the better the paint gets atomized the better the coverage will be in the end. Even thinning the primer out super thin wouldn't help it atomize any better. So with the primer not wanting to atomize I had to find a happy medium between the coverage and quantity. I ended up shooting 4 fairly heavy layers on both sides of each of the side panels. I was amazed at how much coverage I was able to get with just one of the Sprayers.



    Now comes the downside. When the nozzle atomizes the paint/primer properly you will get a nice fine spray. When it doesn't you will get larger drops of paint that wont want to lay down as smoothly. The end result will be Orange Peel. Orange Peel is exactly what I got. Above is about the closest example I could find to my result. Although most paints will tend to give you an Orange Peel affect, their not normally quite this severe. However, all is not lost. The thing you have to remember is coverage, as long as you get good coverage you can sand the orange peel out of it. Simply fix you up a bowl/bucket of water and add just a tad of dish soap to the water (I use just a couple of drops). You then simply take some 400 / 600 Grit sandpaper and dip it in the solution and start sanding.. As you go rinse your piece of sandpaper in the solution to remove any paint build up on it. This simply helps you get a smoother sanding job on the surface, plus helps you save on sandpaper (lasts longer). I ended up wet-sanding in-between every two coats to make sure I didn't sand through my primer. To rule out the issue being the few years old primer, I actually used the same stuff through my air brush for the smaller parts (bay covers, trim pieces on the side panels) and had no problem getting it to atomize decently in the air brush.




    After running into the lack of proper atomization on the primer I had a feeling I was going to run into the same thing with the paint. Granted paint generally is a little thinner than primers are. I repeated the process with the Red Dupli-Color Paint Shop paint. I sprayed on a few layers then wet-sanded and sprayed on two more layers. The paint actually did a little better when it come to atomizing. Before you comment on it being a dull finish ... the shots had been taken after I did the wet-sanding . You can see some of the residue I didn't get on the right side panel. So now that I have managed to get everything sprayed Red (only used 1 Preval Sprayer for the primer, and 1 for the paint, and can still probably get another coat out of each of them). It's time I move on the the more challenging part (for me anyways).



    No Hot Rod would be complete without some flames, right?? I was originally going to do the flames Old School style (White faded to Yellow, or Red faded to Yellow).. But after deciding to go with Red on the main color, I thought it might be better to take the flames a little more current. I will do a "Ghost" type flame. As you can see by the above image, I have one side panel flamed up. Laying out the flames on the first panel isn't that big of a deal. Just remember that you can only make the radius so small before the tape wants to try and wrinkle, which would be bad. The hard part is when you freehand laying out the flames, and then try to match them on the other side. I think I ended up redoing them 3 or 4 times before I was satisfied.

    My "Ghost" flames won't be to the normal standard. Generally when painters shoot Ghost flames, they simply choose an accent color to work with their base color and lightly spray the tips and corners of the flames leaving the main body of the flame the base color. For my flames I am simply going to mix a metallic into the clear and spray it with the airbrush. Now Dupli-Color does sell a Metallic Clear Coat in the quart cans. I didn't want to spend another $23 bucks just for a few ounces of clear. On top of that, the Metallic flakes in their clear seem really big. I wasn't sure if it would clog up the airbrush even with the large needle in it. I just didn't want to take a chance seeing that I had a feeling I was going to be very very tight on my budget. Having mixed paint on a daily basis at one of my previous jobs, I knew where I could get some metallic that would work perfect. While picking up a few things for the truck, I hit up my friend and asked what he would charge me for a pinch of metallic and a few ounces of lacquer clear to work with the Dupli-Color Paint Shop Red lacquer that I sprayed on the panels. Now normally places don't break things down much further than a pint when it comes to mixing paint. But if you ask nicely and explain what your doing, they will normally hook you . Free of charge at times even. You would be surprised at how many times people call in and order a quart of this or a pint of that and then don't come to pick it up. Hell, I've painted two vehicles thanks to people like that .




    I mixed up the clear and metallic really good, and shot it through my airbrush with the largest needle I had. I held the airbrush back away from the panels roughly 10 - 12 inches so I wouldn't get a stripe affect with the metallic. As you can see by the above images. At the right angle the flames show up, but change the way your looking at it and they just might disappear. 8O

    Ok... I'm getting a bit long-winded on this post. For your viewing pleasure I will slip you a few shots of the parts that are completed, waiting for the rest to catch up.




    Above we have a few shots of the front panel completed. I removed the mesh inserts and painted them with the same Chrome paint I used on the grills.

    Oh Hell, maybe just one more.



    This last images shows some of the Sponsored Goodies being warmed up for the ol HotRod.... Mad Props to all of our great Sponsors for hooking us all up.

  4. #24

    Tony -Tazz's Worklog

    Tazz, will it have that much power ? That you needed smoke stacks. Looks Great !

  5. #25
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    Tony -Tazz's Worklog

    You never know... LOL

  6. #26
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    Tony -Tazz's Worklog

    Ok, time for a bit of an update while I wait for paint to dry.

    I wanted to break down the two top coolers and show my quick and easy mounting solution. I forgot to break out the camera when I was doing these , so these shots are after they had been tested and painted.



    Once I had decided to mount the Spin Q's in the top of the case like air filters sticking out of the hood. I first had to decide on an overall height, and how I was going to mount them. As you can see by the above image, the fan itself bolts into the center of the cage with 3 screws. I didn't want to simply mount the assembly to the top of the chassis because it would have been held up by the fan frame and screws. I finally opted to cut the centers out of a couple of 120mm fans, then make a mounting plate to mount the cage of the Spin Q to the 120mm frame. This is done with some scrap plexi.



    After having that solved. I needed to work out the overall height. With the holes roughed out in the top, I reinstalled it with the two fan frames sitting underneath it. I realized really quickly, that the Spin Q's towered over the case. I started thinking of other options for mounting the fans without having so much sticking up. In the ended I decided to simply cut the fans down. With the fans sucking air in the center of the top and bottom it wasn't going to work as efficiently as a standard fan would. Knowing that the entire idea was to simulate air filters sticking out of the hood, I moved forward with the idea of shortening them. I knew very well that removing part of the fan could cause issues with vibrations and noise. I proceeded forward by taking the ol Dremel to them. I cut the upper half of the fan off then filed down the edges that was left. During the process I tried to keep things as smooth and consistent as possible so that I would minimize the chances of taking to much off one side.

    If you recall from my review of the Spin-Q, I noted that there was a bit of a vibration in the fan to start with. After cutting the top off, I quickly plugged it into a open fan header on the system. I was pleased to find that the vibrations actually got better instead of worse. Also pleasing was the fact that it was still moving air, so it would in fact be exhausting some heat out of the case. That's a win win situation in my book. So I moved along and did the same treatment to the second fan. Now some might have thought. Why didn't you just mount the cages over a set of standard 120mm fans.. Well the reason I didn't entertain this idea was simply due to the noise factor. I knew ahead of time what noise levels the Spin Q was going to produce. I also know that adding restrictive material in front of a standard fan greatly increases its noise output. Mounting the cages over a standard fan, and then capping the top off would have definitely increased the noise levels of the fans. Plus this way is much er



    Next up I grabbed some scrap plexi and laid out a couple of mounts. I plopped them on the scroll saw and proceeded to cut them out.



    After using the Dremel once again to tweak the openings so they fan mounts would sit down in them.

    src="http://www.modders-inc.com/images/Tazz/Scream%27n%20S/Scream%27n-S-67.jpg" alt="" />

    I then pulled out another piece of scrap plexi. Drew out my two tops and headed back over to the scroll saw. Once I had the rough shape cut, I drilled the 6 screw holes per cover and gave them a quick test fitting.



    One of the first things I done when I pulled the case out of the box was to remove the stock case feet. I knew that the simple black plastic feet just wouldn't cut it. With the budget getting so close on this build, I decided to rob a set of feet off of one of the Silverstone cases I had sitting in the other room. Still plastic feet, but at least these have a little class to them.



    With everything being either Red, Black, or Chrome, I couldn't leave the PSU its stock charcoal looking color, could I? Hell NO! So out come the screwdriver and with in a few minutes I had the housing separated from the internals.

    Ah.. we need another glamor shot of some hardware... don't we?



    We can't say it enough. Special thanks goes out to our wonderful sponsors.

    Thermaltake:

    Spin Q CPU Cooler
    Element S Case
    650W TR2 RX Power Supply

    Crucial:

    Red Ballistix Tracer 3 x 2GB Memory kit with LED's

    Asus:

    Rampage III Extreme Motherboard
    EAH5850 Direct CU Video Card
    Xonar DX Sound Card
    8X Blu-Ray Combo Drive

    OCZ:

    Solid 2 Series SATA 2.5" Solid State Drive

    Mad Catz:

    Cyborg RAT 7 Mouse
    Cyborg V.7 Gaming Keyboard
    Cyborg V.5 Gaming Surface
    Tritton AX51 Pro Gaming Headset

  7. #27

    Tony -Tazz's Worklog

    Regarding noise, you are doing a car themed build. It doesn't matter how much noise there is, it matters what that noise sounds like......

    Mount up a sound system and play a looping track of an idling engine, then add an occasional rev up with turbo whine. All noise problems solved :twisted:

  8. #28

    Tony -Tazz's Worklog

    She looks great Tazz and the smoke stack idea is very cool indeed.
    There's no such thing as too much cooling T-Bass until you see your components flying inside of the case like popcorn lol!
    Props to Crucial too for the Ballistix Tracer memory that goes perfectly with the ROG mobo!

    The front grill turned out even better than I thought it would. The individual bay covers painted red adds a lot of class and detail to the overall build as well.

  9. #29
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    Tony -Tazz's Worklog

    LOL I've had loud systems, I now try to keep them toned down a bit .

    Thanks guys.

  10. #30

    Tony -Tazz's Worklog

    The ghosted flames look awesome. Nice work.

    D.

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