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Thread: Cosmos Cruizer

  1. #61
    Hey guys, I'm back again with some progress on the back panel. Originally I wasn't going to do much to it, but it quickly became clear it would be easier to just create a whole new panel, rather than trying to modify the stock one.

    Here's a pic I took a while ago, cutting the stock rear panel away. I think I did this just prior to working on the suicide door and hinges.


    Using 1/8" acrylic sheet, I made the center piece along with two vertical pieces, a top mounting piece, and a curved piece on the bottom. Here I'm gluing the two vertical pieces at an angle to match up with the side panels.


    I made a couple fan mounts out of 1/4" acrylic that also serve as cross braces to give the panel some rigidity.


    Trying the panel on the case, checking for fit and marking positions for fans, fillport, and the new IO panel.


    Back panel trimmed, glued, reinforced, and fans mounted.


    For the fillport, I was going to do something like those flip-up fuel doors on Dodge Daytonas, but I thought a hide-away system would be more appropriate for a custom rod theme. So I drew up a quick model in Sketchup...


    The lid will continue the design of the top panel, with the aluminum bars ending in a half circle. Custom hinges will allow the lid to raise up over the bars on the top panel, revealing the fillport underneath.


    I grabbed some pieces of acrylic from my scrap bin and started making the pieces for the base.


    When assembled, they will stack up like this:


    And top view:


    Using acrylic cement, I started gluing the pieces up.


    While that was setting up, I proceeded to make the lid, cutting the mesh, trim ring, and bending the aluminum bars.


    I'm thinking I will use my alumiweld brazing rods to solder the bars to the mesh, rather than tapping/screwing them from underneath. Either way, they will look like this when done:




    Preparing the back panel for the fillport...


    Fillport set in place for a test fit..


    ..and with lid.


    Now I have to tackle the hinges next. Looks like I'll have to modify the design a bit to accommodate the mesh, but that shouldn't take too long.

    Thanks for reading, 'til next time!
    www.bods-mods.com

  2. #62
    Got more progress done on the fillport area of the back panel..

    I made the hinge for the fillport cover, first designing it in Sketchup, then printing it out 1:1, taping it onto the aluminum piece, scoring the cut lines, and cutting it out.


    Then I proceeded to bend the ends and the center 90.


    The result:


    I then tack-welded it to the mesh cover.


    The outer trim piece got some flush-mount alan screws.

    Holes drilled and chamfered..


    Subsequent holes drilled and tapped into the acrylic..


    Screws in...



    Then I decided to do the same circular bar treatment to the PSU fan grill. So after drawing it out and taking measurements between bars, I found/made up some circles with the specified diameters.


    Bending the alu bar around the wood blocks..


    All bars bent..


    Next will be bending the bottoms of the bars to follow the curve of the back panel, so they travel down and under the case.
    www.bods-mods.com

  3. #63

  4. #64
    More stainless hard line goodness...

    This time I decided to try filling the pipe with sand before bending, to see if that would help keep the tube more rounded in the curves. It wasn't bad before, but it was noticeable.


    Taped the ends off and laid it onto the heater for a couple minutes to warm it up.


    Bending..


    45 bend came out nice, just like my test wire.


    My test wire is actually just solder lol. But it's perfect for finding the correct bends and transferring them to the pipe, because it's very soft and malleable, and holds its shape.


    Here's all the pipe runs bent..


    And here are some shots with the pipes in place..










    Looking forward to seeing all these pipes in their finished, chrome state!

    Ok, back to the seemingly never-ending work on the back panel...
    www.bods-mods.com

  5. #65
    Slow progress is slow...

    After looking at my pipe-bending handiwork, something didn't quite look right to me. Took me a while to pin-point it, but I think I found the culprit. It was the longest piece of stainless in the back. So I decided to re-do it, to give the QDC's a bit more breathing room so-to-speak. I didn't really like the vertical pipe's close proximity to the fittings, so I added a few slight bends to give them a bit wider berth. This just looks better to me now.


    Ok now that I can sleep nights once again, I have more back panel progress to show...

    A new IO plate has been forged! It all started in Sketchup, laying out all the ports plus power plug and PSU on/off switch. Printed it out 1:1, and taped it to a piece of aluminum scrap.


    Took the exacto knife to it and traced all the ports.


    With the aluminum plate scored, I could start drilling holes and scrolling the ports. First DVI port cut out.


    All ports scrolled and filed. Still have to round the edges & sand.


    With all the ports cut out, I could transfer those areas to the back panel to be cut out as well.


    IO plate in position, with ends bent to match the back panel.


    Behind the scenes shot of fitting the extensions, adapters, & PSU parts.


    I have to work up some sort of retaining piece to hold all the cables in place, so that they stay perfectly aligned with the IO plate cutouts. Then I'll permanently affix them to the back panel. Maybe a solid block of epoxy putty?
    www.bods-mods.com

  6. #66
    Jumping back onto the lower back panel to finish off the PSU fan grill area.

    I last left off with bending the 1/8" aluminum bars to match the hinged fillport door up top. Here I cut out the portion of the panel that will be replaced with mesh.


    Speaking of mesh, here it is, with curve to fit the rounded corner at the bottom of the panel.


    Mesh fit into cutout area of panel.


    And here are the alu bars with the ends bent to follow the lower curve. I also made end caps to join the ends and complete the design.


    I clamped them all together with the correct spacing and marked the underside for screw holes.


    In between bouts of drilling/tapping 2-56 holes in the 1/8" alu bars, I made the bottom acrylic piece that will pick up the two PSU mounting screws.


    Finally, with all the mounting screw holes done, I could fasten the bars down.


    And with the lower end caps in place. Still needs some adjustment here and there, and I will take care of that later.


    Lastly, an overall shot of the back panel in its present state. Inching dangerously close to being done methinks!
    www.bods-mods.com

  7. #67
    Was a beautiful weekend, so I took this opportunity to take care of an issue I had with the fiberglass panel that's been bugging me ever since I switched motherboards. I originally designed the panel to accommodate the EVGA X79 FTW, but when I exchanged that for the X79 Dark, the graphics cards did not line up with the cutout anymore. Slot #1 is positioned differently, so now the first card interferes with the edge of the cutout. And widening the cutout didn't solve the visual problem.

    As you can see here, the card goes past the "shock tower" of the panel and just looks like a mistake. It's been driving me nuts, so I gotta fix it!






    This close-up shot shows that the HDMI ports are inaccessible.


    Thanks to the forgiving nature of fiberglass, this is a relatively easy fix. I cut out the corner of the shock tower on both sides...


    Then cut 5/8" off the right side and put it over on the left to fill the gap, effectively moving the corner over and widening the towers. I temporarily tape it all together from the back.


    Then I tape it from the front and block it so the pieces stay flat.




    Then I removed the back tape and proceeded to fill in the gaps with thickened resin. After a few hours of curing, I removed the blocks and tape.


    Everything is filled in for the most part, and level with the rest of the surface. All I need to do now is apply a bit of bondo filler and sand smooth.


    A slight set-back, but well worth the effort. My OCD is once again back down to nominal levels.
    www.bods-mods.com

  8. #68
    Hey guys, got some updates for you. Yes, plural, as in more than one! I just got back from my vacation in Hawaii, and I'm refreshed and ready to make the final push to finish this project by PDXLAN 24 in July. I returned home to a bunch of acrylic pieces waiting and ready to assemble, thanks to Brian at Primochill/ModSmart. This update will cover one of the parts I got... actually two: Fan shrouds for both sides of the 240mm radiator.

    I designed a shroud that would cover both fans, and incorporate a cool flame grill for them as well. Here are the pieces for both shrouds, straight from the laser.


    I took the pieces for one of the shrouds and taped them all together. As you can see, it's just a simple box.


    After some aligning, I clamped them down and glued them together.


    A few minutes later and I could take the tape off.


    It fits snugly around both fans. Only thing I had to do was cut some notches in the bottom to clear the alu mounting posts underneath.


    Now here's the coolness factor... Flame grills! Cut out of UV orange, these will be glued into the circle cutouts of the shroud. I elongated the flames so the tips extend over the edge. That way I can glue them down and they won't be prone to breaking off.


    I should be able to finish these tomorrow, as well as a few more part assemblies. So I'll have another update for you then.
    www.bods-mods.com

  9. #69
    Fan shrouds part 2: Flame grill bending

    I wanted to push the flame grill concept a bit further and see if I couldn't get a more realistic 3D look by adding some heat. I grabbed a bunch of dowels, some craft sticks, and my heat gun and went to work.


    A lower angle shows the curves better.


    It doesn't take much to get the thin licks soft. I used the craft sticks to shield the other parts I just bent from getting soft again.


    After finishing all the bends, I stuck it on the shroud to see how it looked. I made sure there was enough clearance between the fan and the flames.


    Looks great but I'm not done yet! Time to add a second layer...

    I had a bunch more extra flames cut so I could intertwine them with the first layer. I took individual licks and bent them according to where I wanted them placed.


    Here's two pieces temporarily clamped together.


    This took some time, as there was a lot of trial fits and re-bending. I ended up using three separate licks (a double, and two singles) to fill in the gaps, giving it a nice random feel.


    A top view shows the depth well.


    I'm loving this look!


    And now I get to repeat it for the other three fans on this rad, plus the 140mm fan on the rear panel.
    www.bods-mods.com

  10. #70
    While I continue on the flame grill bending spree, here are a few other pieces I made up.

    The EK reservoir comes with an acrylic insert with their logo, but it seemed kind of piddly inside this long tube res.


    So I designed a custom insert more appropriate to this case and size of the res...


    Installed...




    Also made a cover for the PSU. Another simple 4-piece box with some holes in the top for cabling.


    Glued, sanded, and in place...


    No fasteners required! Some double-stick tape should be enough to hold it in place, along with the cables going through the holes up top.


    The large holes are for the 24pin and 6pin PCI cables, while the smaller holes are positioned over the 12v power and molex cables. I'll explain my cabling scheme in more detail a bit later when I have more to show.
    :wink:
    www.bods-mods.com

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