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Thread: Blue BAWLS - STH10, R5E, 5930K, Copper Tubing

  1. #11
    Sanded NavyChief's Avatar
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    Now to complete that motherboard...

    All 32GB of the Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 2666Mhz (8x4GB) memory, with the light bar upgrade kits, have been mounted onto the motherboard.



    Overall shot of the entire motherboard tray with everything mounted.



    Here is the back of the tray with all those connections!



    Close-up of what connectors are offered on the R5E backplate.


  2. #12
    Sanded NavyChief's Avatar
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    With most of the components in place, now to figure out a routing scheme.

    Here is my first draft....



    The blue loop is for the video cards and the yellow loop is for the CPU.

    The upper two 460mm radiators are for the video loop and the lower 560mm radiator is for the CPU.

  3. #13
    Sanded NavyChief's Avatar
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    Here is the first batch of Bitspower and Primochill connectors.



    Twenty-four Primochill Rigid Revolver compression fittings sure do look good when lined up!



    Here is a close-up of these beautiful silver fittings.


  4. #14
    Can't wait to see this when it's done! Your cases never fail to impress!

  5. #15
    Sanded NavyChief's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiterice View Post
    Can't wait to see this when it's done! Your cases never fail to impress!
    Thanks! It is fun to do these projects, but very time consuming and expensive.

    This will probably be my last case, for at least a year. Would like to go back to judging for the QuakeCon 2016 case mod contest.

  6. #16
    Sanded NavyChief's Avatar
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    With each build I try to do something new. The first build used vinyl tubing and the second utilized acrylic tubing. For this build I thought I would try the next step ... copper tubing.

    Did a lot of research and it does not sound too difficult.

    The 1/2" copper tubing sold in the U.S. does not bend easily, so I went with copper coils that are readily sold in most home improvement stores.



    The tubing comes in 3/8" ID and 1/2" OD. This is the exact size requirement for the Primochill Revolver fittings. I decided to start with the 10' roll since I know that there will be mistakes due to the learning curve of working with copper. The copper material is pliable and has a nice clean look straight out of the box.



    Since the tubing is coiled, I had to find a way to straighten it to my needs. I found a tool that is made in the UK by a company called Kwix UK. Their tube straightening tool is easy to use and does the job perfectly!



    I ordered the 1/2" OD tool. It uses 4 sets of rollers (16 in all) that straighten and align the tubing as it is passed over the length.



    In this shot you can see some of the tubing that has been straightened. The tools shown are the Kwix UK tool and a Rigid 36132 1/2" OD tube bender.



    This is a shot of the first section fitted in place. This is probably the longest section and the most obvious.




  7. #17
    Sanded NavyChief's Avatar
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    I cannot believe how much trouble I am having with installing the compression fittings in the upper and lower chambers. These two areas will utilize tubing since they will not be seen and the tight confines in relation to the radiators.

    I am utilizing Bitspower compression fittings and EK-Tube ZMT. Both are 5/8" x 3/8".

    The problem is not with the tubing sliding onto the fitting, but with getting the collars started onto the fitting threads. I already have blisters on both hands just trying to get the threads started. Once started, I can finish it with not too much trouble.

    Any tips / advice for getting the collars started? I found some articles stating that a little soapy water on the tubing outer area so that the collar slides up a little easier. Any other tips for this?

  8. #18
    Have you tried cutting it up the tubing? Reason I say this is sometimes with the sections are cut they flare out just a bit.

  9. #19
    Sanded NavyChief's Avatar
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    Here are some shots of the completed build. Contemplating making some changes to the mid-plate though.
















  10. #20
    Sanded NavyChief's Avatar
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    After listening to the Modders Inc video after QuakeCon, I am in agreement that my case interior did not match my theme of BAWLS. The exterior was good with the Candy Cobalt Blue and BAWLS logo, but the interior was lacking and too stock (i.e. flat black).

    I decided to disassemble the case and paint all the interior panels (except the back panel) a Pearl White color. The pearl color is a softer white and the sheen will emphasize the chrome nicely.

    After about 5 hours of draining both loops and disassembling all the components, the case is finally apart.



    - - - Updated - - -

    Here are the interior panels with that Pearl White color.

    The panels include the top and bottom shelves, the front fan bracket and the complete motherboard tray assembly.



    - - - Updated - - -

    I was able to re-assemble the case with pretty much no effort at all. Here you can see all the panels have been installed and the motherboard mounted on the tray again.



    Definitely like the contrast that the white provides.

    Have replaced all the black mounting screws with chrome screws. You can see some of the screws on the bottom shelf on the left side and above the motherboard. Black screws would have broken up the white too much and the chrome actually complements the chrome tubing.

    One of the hardest things to reinstall was the rubber grommets on the backplate and shelves. Those things fit extremely snugly! It took some effort to get them back inside and lined up smoothly again.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I now have the interior components mostly reassembled and mounted.

    As you can see, the reservoirs really stand out now with the white interior.

    I also mounted a BAWLS bottle into the interior. The hardest part was drilling a clean 1" diameter hole in the bottom of the bottle without breaking it. I found a nice 1" diamond tipped hole saw at Home Depot and cut cleanly through without too much problem. Now the chrome pipe runs through the bottle. That area was kind of empty previously. Also, it would not have been too noticeable with the original black background.

    The leak testing finished with not a single drop showing on any fitting.

    Now to work on the wiring.



    - - - Updated - - -

    Received some Gosumodz Alliance Combs from MAINframe Customs. The items were shipped promptly and delivered on-time.

    These are some truly beautiful cable combs made out of a special aluminum alloy! I ordered the 24-pin, 12-pin, 8-pin and 4-pin versions in the natural color. I removed the clear plastic cable combs and these new combs will really complement the build more.

    They also have anodized versions in red and black. The sizes available are 4-pin, 6-pin, 8-pin, 12-pin, 14-pin, 16-pin and 24-pin.



    - - - Updated - - -

    After examining the interior of the case more thoroughly, I decided that the stock memory heatsink covers were too dull compared to all the shiny chrome around them.

    Here is a shot of all 8 Corsair Dominator Platinum memory sticks with the light bar upgrades in their stock finish.



    That dull silver textured finish just couldn't do. After hours of sanding and prepping, it was time for chroming. Here is a shot of the stock and shined versions.



    Another shot contrasting the differences.



    All 8 finished pieces lined up and ready for installation.



    The first one is reassembled with the blue light bar insert.



    All complete and ready.





    - - - Updated - - -

    Finished installing the memory sticks onto the motherboard.





    - - - Updated - - -

    Finished up the build and here are some shots...

























    - - - Updated - - -

    I took the case to Dreamhack Austin and entered it into the case mod contest held by CPU Magazine.

    The changes were apparently just what it needed and it took 1st place.

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